Mainstream Hype
Posted on May 3rd, 2008
by
Lawrence
I love reading restaurant reviews. S. Irene Virbila from the LA Times writes lyrically about food, and I respect her immensely.
I'll pick up magazines like Los Angeles and flip through the restaurant guides. But it's really pros like LA Weekly's Jonathan Gold (Pulitzer Prize winner to boot) that know what's going on. His Counter Intelligence column and his regular appearances on Evan Kleinman's KCRW program Good Food (www.kcrw.com/goodfood) exemplify the best of Los Angeles gastronomy.
Recently, my friend Eddie, Taiwanese by birth, has introduced me to the San Gabriel Valley. I'm so ashamed! After growing up in Los Angeles all my life, I didn't know that this treasure of cultural delights existed. My insular South Bay upbringing lead me to believe that Downtown LA's ABC restaurant was the apotheosis of Southland Chinese food. Sad isn't it?
And if you read mainstream reviews you'd think that L.A. Chinese food didn't get much better than Chin Chin's on Sunset. Really, these mainstream guides are so Westside-centric and dare I say, culturally ignorant, that they ignore where LA's real food scene is bubbling over with amazing food. Take for instance, the SGV. A vast sea of superlative Chinese food that I'm sure rivals that of any Chinese community in the world.
Tonight I ate at Din Tai Fung, which has several addresses in Asia. And we're the only non-Asian location for this chain. Eddie said that growing up, people would wait hours to eat at the Taipei restaurant. Their specialty? Dumplings. Steamed, boiled, but I don't think deep fried appeared on the menu. www.dintaifungusa.com. Eddie's taken me to several San Gabriel Valley restaurants, and now that my eye's have been opened, I can't read the mainstream English language magazines without thinking about how limited and culturally ignorant they can be. And I believed it when people told me that if you wanted really good Chinese food in North America you had to go to Vancouver. The lies!
I guess I should have known better. Growing up in Torrance, we had some pretty kick ass Japanese food. And with Japanese parents, I had an opportunity to eat some fine Japanese eats. The restaurants where I'd eat ranked better than most that appear in mainstream guides. But you'd never know this because these hype happy publications rarely venture out of the realm of trendy West side destinations.
I've been unplugged from the food matrix and my taste buds will never be the same.

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